Travel & Adventure in Arizona

Tombstone Territorial Actors at Fairbank (Photo by Jackie Dishner)

At the turn of the 20th century, despite its small size, the tiny town of Fairbank (population maxed out at around 1,000) served an important role to the larger mining towns nearby. For one, it served as the nearest train depot to the rapidly growing Tombstone and was a major stop for Wells Fargo. Expensive goods were shipped here. The wealthy could enjoy oysters on the half shell at the restaurant underneath the hotel. The stagecoach would shuttle weary travelers on over to Tombstone. So it makes sense that a sensational train robbery also occurred at this site.

In February 1900, train robbers, including a man known as Three Fingered Jack Dunlap, jumped aboard the Wells Fargo that had stopped in Fairbank, catching the guard Jeff Milton by surprise. A shoot-out ensured–Bang! Bang! Bang!–leaving Milton with a shattered arm and Dunlap mortally wounded. The train robbery foiled, Dunlap dead, Milton became the town hero. Ah, yes. Arizona tourists love a good ghost town–stories and all.

But the ones they visit are generally not real ghost towns–not in the true sense of the word. Typically, you’ll want to see Bisbee, Jerome or certainly Tombstone. Big names. Small towns. Lots of Arizona ghostly quirks. But people live there! These are not the ghost towns I think of when I refer to the phrase. When I say ghost town, I mean no one lives there–except for spirits of past lives who once roamed the boarded up buildings and dusty roads, people like Jeff Milton, who really did live and work in Fairbank.

So let me introduce you to the town that was founded in 1881 and was abandoned by the mid-1970s. I just returned from a quick visit there this past weekend. My boyfriend and I happened to stumble upon a big event when we arrived. It was Fairbank Days at the historic townsite that was once a bustling–and very loud–milling camp along the San Pedro River in southern Arizona.

Broken String Band beside Fairbank Schoolhouse (Photo by Jackie Dishner)

One of many similar towns along the San Pedro that died out when the mines in nearby Tombstone shut down, Fairbank offers an interesting look back in time to see what life must have been like in a mill town that also followed the path of the railroad at the turn of the 20th century.

Of course, we showed up when the Friends of the San Pedro volunteers were hosting a live bluegrass band and the train robbery re-enactment, so that gave our imaginations a little more to work with during our stay.

But a quick stop inside the historic schoolhouse, completely restored, offers what the average visitor will see. Inside the building, which houses a gift shop and historic displays, you’ll get a good idea of how the Fairbank townsfolk lived. For one thing, they must have spent a lot of time drinking–the people co-existed with at least five saloons.

Standing in the shadow of historic Fairbank (Photo by Jackie Dishner)

You can also tour the townsite. Pick up the pamphlet and follow the street signs to learn about and see replicas of buildings that once stood on the sandy soil and also remains of the mercantile building. The railroad tracks are long gone, but follow the old bed (now a dusty trail that loops over to the river), bordered by a mesquite forest and sacaton grass, and it will take you to the historic cemetery up a hill and to remnants of the old mill, just 1.2 miles up the road.  If you’re up for a lengthier hike, take the loop all the way around and beside the river, or continue on to the nearby Spanish presidio (pre-dating the mines, of course). Plan for a half day of hiking if you do that. If you forgot to bring enough water, the gift shop sells it inside the schoolhouse building, along with books, gifts and artwork; proceeds help fund the work that is being done to preserve the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area, which Fairbank is a part of, and what the Nature Conservancy refers to as a “last great place.”

IF YOU GO

What: FAIRBANK GHOST TOWN

When: OPEN FRI-SUN, 9:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.

Where: Located off SR 82, just east of the San Pedro River and six miles west of SR 80 (between Whetstone and Tombstone)

Cost: FREE!

Details: CALL 520-457-3062

Web site: www.sanpedroriver.org